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Writer's picturecameron shelby

Moen Troll trim replacement

Updated: Jul 18, 2023


moen trim 1
bathroom remodel

The Moen troll, is an older series of Moen, they sell the pozi-temp model now. they are similar in function. They are different in the type of trim(faceplate and handle) and the type of cartridge. first remove the cover on the end of the handle(not seen here) to expose either the flat head or Phillips screw that holds the handle to the cartridge. then remove the screw. try to keep the handle on cold.(so you know where cold is on the new handle if it mounts differently).








removing the escutcheon
pulling off the escutcheon

after the handle is off, remove the tube eschew (that covers the cartridge) and the two Phillips screws holding the faceplate on. typically the back side of the valve is nasty, so be ready to clean off the old calk and what ever els is stuck in your way. now you should see the valve body or the plastic guard in your way.

moen troll trim conversion plate
conversion plate

this particular trim has an adapter plate to change the screw hole pattern that holds the face plat on. so this plate actually requires me to make the hole bigger so the plate can move through the fiberglass to the valve. I also have to remove the plastic guard. which requires a lil love lol or a hammer and a chisel. I used my pliers to break small chunks off of the fiberglass. take care not to split the fiberglass. before screwing this plate ensure the screw pattern is not backwards since this one is so easily installed backwards. two screws and the brass plate is on.














putting on the handle
putting on the handle

it is easier to put the new eschecheon into the faceplate and putting them both together onto the valve body. when pushing the eschecheon back make. sure it is seated all the way back until it stops. find the screw holes through the face plate. they are typically about 3-4 inches long and can be a pain to locate the hole for those inexperienced technicians. take special care to ensure that the threads are not cross threaded before really tightening down. the faceplate should be tight to the fiberglass. if the valve still moves around than either, the valve is not secured or the trim was installed incorrectly(typically noticeable by screws sticking out). usually a loose valve can be remedied by placing something rigid in-between the valve and the fiberglass.(because the plastic guard is gone) so that when the faceplate is tightened it tightens against the fiberglass.

the handle assembly is easy enough, the notch on the white piece aligns whit the eschew and if the handle was left on cold the black plastic tab should be on the right side. a Philips screw in the end holds on the limit stop and handle mount.


valve trim installed
valve trim installed

finally a small Allen screw mounts through the hole in the handle, into the plastic mount. typically the handle points towards the black notch on the handle mount. check to make sure hot is still hot and calk the faceplate to the fiberglass.


next is the tub spout. (always after the trim, the trim moves when tightening and will change the distance your tub spout is off the fiberglass.

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